Do you know how it feels to come enter a building and then coming out to a road leading to an adventure? I still remembered the feeling when I wander through the maze of the old town in Krakow that one fine morning in November. It feels so awesome (despite the fact that a lot of who-I-suspect to be thieves eyeing us, the only Asian-looking people wandering around the old town that day).
Actually I wonder why it does feel different when you are walking in modern Asian cities like Singapore or Hong Kong compared to the old town in Europe. I suppose it is probably due to the vibe given by the architecture of the buildings. Most old towns in Europe maintain its historical architecture of the buildings and houses which creates incomparable unique experience. Old Town Krakow offers many majestic architectural monuments, priceless cultural treasures, cobbled walkways, atmospheric courtyards, alleys and cafes. It is by no feat one of the most beautiful architectural showpieces and also, tourist destinations in Poland.
While it is so tempting to laze and chill at one of many beautiful cafes along the alleys of Krakow Historic Old Town, any exploration of the old town should start with the “Royal Route”, the historical coronation path of the Polish kings when Krakow appointed as the royal capital from the 14th century to the end of the 16th century.
The starting point of the route is the Main Market Square (Rynek Glowny). With the size of 200 metres square, the Rynek easily tops the list of the largest medieval squares in Europe. The Rynek is surrounded at all sides with wonderful townhouses which serves as offices, cafes, clothing stores and restaurants. The market square has witnessed uncountable amounts of officiate ceremony for kings and also, public executions. Many revolts and celebrations were also held at the square ranging from Tadeusz Kosciuszko’s public revolt agains foreign rule in 1794 to a parade of sausage dogs and Christmas crib competitions. Seems to be a lively square no matter if the event is for fun or fear.
Flower market is a thriving business in Krakow and you can find a lot of cut flowers on the main market square. Courting game in Poland is a serious business and flower is apparently one of the key too to win your lady. There is a rule to always give an odd number of flowers (or stems) unless the occasion is a solemn one and make sure to remove the paper before you arrive at the lady’s doorstep. A bit of color-guideline: Red is for love, pink is for potential mothers-in-law (and neutral fall-back colours if you are unsure about the rule); yellow is for envy (and hence, please avoid). For the type of flowers, roses always make a good bet while chrysanthemums are for the dead and carnations are unpopular due to lingering communist connotations (uhh what?).
The most iconing building at the centra of Krakow’s market square is definitely the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) which was built in the mid-13th century. Sukiennice has been a trading centre of textiles, fabrics and commodities including wax, spices, leather and silk. The establishment of Cloth Hall has boosted Krakow’s role in the trading of Eastern Europe in that century. After undergoing a series of fire and turbulent wartimes, the interior of the Cloth Hall has been restored and half of the upper floor of it was converted into the first Polish National Museum in 1879. Development in the 21st century has face-lifted the building, equipping it with lifts, air-conditioning and new natural and artificial lightings. Cafe Szat which is overlooking the square below is now occupying what used to be decrepit attics of the Cloth Hall.
I could not remember which turn which I took because I, for sure, did not follow the route suggested by the Royal Route map available at the opposite of the Rynek. But I prefer it this way. After all random encounter and finding seem to make life pretty much unexpected and fun, in its certain way. This time around, my random exploration has led me to a building which is used to be the old house of Pope John Paul II. Karol Wojyla (who later on known as Pope John Paul II) had lived in Krakow for four decades until his assumption of the papacy. Krakow is the city where he spent his formative years as a student and then, as a young priest, a theologian, a philosopher, a playwright and a poet.
A few steps away from the house of Pope John Paul II lies a boutique hotel and gourmet restaurant located in the prime spot of the old town of Krakow, Hotel Copernicus. The building looks like a red-brick vintage house from outside but it is a luxurious hotel which receives a lot of great review from guests who have stayed there before. My tour guide has been tellling us spooky stories from his previous staying experience at old hotels in Europe so I suppose every historical buildings has its own story to tell.
Another point of interest in Old Town Krakow is lcoated a few blocks further at Grodzka Street. The Church of St Andrew, a historical Romanesque church built within the year of 1079 and 1098. The church had also served as a defense fortress in that era and it was the only church which was able to withstand the attack of the Mongols. Hmm, I wonder how did the Mongols reach Krakow, from Russia I suppose?
I have read somewhere online that most of the relics inside the church of St Andrew were looted during those barbaric times so don’t expect so much if you are making a trip inside. If you want to go ahead, you can visit the church between 9AM to 5PM except when the mass is in session.
